Precise detective work is carried out every day in Foxa’s laboratory. The new microscope helps to investigate complaints, develop new materials and ensure that fabrics withstand proper use. It is not just about quality control, but about the ability to see details that the naked eye would never notice.
The new microscope has been in active use at Foxa’s laboratory for a year and a half now. It is used to examine the structure of fabrics, compare materials and identify the causes of various anomalies.
“It’s a bit like detective work,” says Päivi Pajunen, who is responsible for production and finishing at Foxa.
When a customer complains, for example, about pilling or a change in the feel of the fabric, the investigation begins. The microscope allows us to examine yarn twists, weaves, fibre behaviour and the possible cause of the anomaly.
At the same time, the images are sent directly to a computer, allowing the materials to be compared side by side with great precision.
Not everything is visible to the naked eye. For example, during washing, external lint may become entangled between the fibres, or small fibre ends may protrude from the yarn, affecting the fabric’s appearance and durability. A microscope helps to understand where the phenomenon actually originates.
At Foxa, materials are tested under laboratory conditions, but the real-world environment can be very different. Every laundry has its own processes and machinery, and it is not possible to fully simulate all conditions in the laboratory.
– Sometimes the best way to understand a problem would be to go and see what the fabric user does during the day. However, that isn’t always possible, Pajunen notes.
Quality according to intended use
At Foxa, quality assurance does not mean top-of-the-range quality at any cost. The aim is to find a solution suitable for the intended use.
– It has to be high quality, but there’s no point in taking everything to the extreme if there’s no real need for it, reflects Juha Ilén, who works in product development at Foxa.
In the laboratory, materials are also subjected to exceptionally rigorous tests. Fabrics are rubbed with Velcro, for example, to see how they behave under extreme conditions. At the same time, the aim is to understand what factors affect material wear in practice.
A microscope also helps to verify production batches. Sometimes even a slight difference in the twist of the yarn, the weave or the fibre structure can have a significant impact on the end result. Outwardly, the fabric may look perfectly fine, even if there is a deviation in the structure.
Images make communication with manufacturers easier than before.
– An image is a universal language. When you can see things at the microscopic level, it also becomes easier to ask questions and highlight problems, says Pajunen.
Impossible combinations in product development
At Foxa’s laboratory, the microscope also aids product development. A customer might bring in a sample fabric and request a material that is, for example, soft, thin and extremely durable all at once.
Often, these goals are mutually exclusive.
– Product development is a long iterative process. You usually have to compromise slightly on some aspect, explains Ilén.
A microscope can be used to compare different structures and look for clues as to how a particular property has been achieved. It does not yet reveal everything about the chemistry of the fibres, but it provides important initial information and helps steer development work in the right direction.
At Foxa, they actively monitor what’s on offer at international trade fairs and make factory visits. New materials are often researched years before there is any actual demand for them.
“You have to constantly expose yourself to new things. Sometimes the most interesting idea comes from something you weren’t even looking for,” Ilén enthuses.
Foxa’s strong expertise in materials and extensive network of partners are also part of Finland’s security of supply. Although not everything is manufactured in Finland, the expertise and ability to assess materials remain here.